Slovenia bid for €1 billion balsamic vinegar market leaves sour taste in Italy’s mouth

A member of the Leonardi family checks the colors of aging balsamic vinegar in the village of Magreta di Formigine in Modena

Credit: David Silverman /Getty Images Europe 

An attempt by Slovenia to muscle in on the lucrative balsamic vinegar market has left a sour taste in Italian mouths, with Rome pledging to defend its iconic product.

Slovenia has proposed that any vinegar containing concentrated grape must — the foodstuff’s key ingredient — should be called balsamic vinegar.

Italy is resolutely opposed to that, saying that its aceto balsamico is a distinctive product made to a unique recipe and that it comes only from the city of Modena and its surroundings.

There is much at stake – Italy says that balsamic vinegar sales are worth around €1 billion a year.

Italy’s agriculture ministry has written to the European Commission to contest the Slovenian move.

“The protection of Italian wine and gastronomy is one of the government’s priorities,” said Stefano Patuanelli, the agriculture minister.

“We will do everything possible to defend Modena’s balsamic vinegar from these illicit attacks.”

Local vineyards for the production of balsamic vinegar in Magreta, Emilia Romagna

Credit: Universal Images Group Editorial 

Coldiretti, a national food association, added in a statement: “The unacceptable ripping-off of the name balsamic vinegar by Slovenia puts at risk a €1 billion sector and represents an attack on the whole system of quality Italian produce."

The association said that Italy already suffers immense damage from other countries appropriating its distinctive food and drink, with Italian-sounding or Italian-imitation products worth more than €100 billion a year.

Italy has battled for years against “low-cost imitations that have nothing to do with the original Italian products,” Coldiretti said.

The Italian consortium of producers of balsamic vinegar is also alarmed by the Slovenian challenge, saying it would undermine EU systems that recognise products that have a unique tie to a particular region, from Champagne to buffalo mozzarella cheese.

The European Commission is considering the dispute and will make a decision within three months.

Giacomo Ponti, the owner of an historic balsamic vinegar company in Modena, said if Slovenia was successful in its bid, it would create confusion for consumers.

“We would have two products with the same name, which would put at risk Italian balsamic vinegar. We call on the European Commission to say no to Slovenian balsamic.”

Slovenia said it is not trying to poach Italy’s glory over the contested condiment.

The country’s agriculture minister said its proposals would not “oppose or restrict in any way the already established protected geographical indications” for Italian balsamic vinegar.