Kentucky’s climate is suffering. Can the state slip the industry ties that prevent change?

April 15. That’s the traditional frost-free date in Schochoh, in south-central Kentucky, where Sam Halcomb and his family own and operate Walnut Grove Farms. In April, the soft red winter wheat that Halcomb grows, which finds its way into McDonald’s biscuits and grocery store pancake mixes, is flowering and especially vulnerable to cold. The frost-free date is an estimate, based on years of experience. If you make it past that date, you’re likely to have a healthy harvest.

This year, a freeze came on exactly April 15, with early morning temperatures dropping into the mid-20s Fahrenheit. “We were all smacking our heads, saying, ‘Ah, we almost made it’,” Halcomb said. Then, on May 9, another freeze hit.